In 1969, an extraordinary journey began that would span the entire length of the African continent. Before GPS navigation, travel blogs, or even reliable guidebooks, Barry Maughan, his wife Suzanne, and later their one-year-old son Kevin embarked on an adventure that would challenge them, transform them, and ultimately become a testament to human connection across cultural boundaries.
Photos Courtesy of Barry Maughan
Their epic expedition started in Alexandria, Egypt, where a chance meeting with an Egyptian general would set the tone for what Barry calls “a journey of serendipity.” This unexpected connection provided them with a personal guide, safe passage for their VW camper, and an introduction to the true spirit of hospitality that would characterize their African odyssey. Unlike the carefully curated tourism experiences of today, Barry and his family navigated their way through Africa’s changing landscapes, political realities, and diverse communities with nothing but paper maps, local advice, and a willingness to meet people on their own terms.
What makes this journey particularly remarkable was the time period during which it occurred. The late 1960s and early 1970s represented a pivotal moment in African history, with many countries experiencing the early years of independence and others still under colonial rule. This was the era of Idi Amin in Uganda, a time when crossing borders often meant encountering officials who couldn’t read but wielded significant power. It was a period when political instability could suddenly close borders, as happened when Muammar Gaddafi took power in Libya, forcing the travelers to change their plans and head south instead of west.
The VW camper, affectionately named “Bridget,” became not just their mode of transportation but their home. The vehicle faced numerous challenges: acacia thorns puncturing tires, muddy roads requiring village assistance to escape, and rivers that needed careful fording with improvised snorkels made from rubber hoses. These mechanical challenges represented only a fraction of the obstacles they encountered, yet each difficulty introduced them to the generosity of locals who consistently offered help without expectation of payment.
The most powerful aspect of Barry’s recollections involves the human connections made throughout their journey. After their son Kevin was born in Ethiopia, he became what Barry calls their “goodwill ambassador.” With his towhead of snow-white hair and blue eyes, Kevin fascinated local children and adults alike, opening doors to experiences that might otherwise have remained closed. One particularly moving encounter involved a Dinka woman who, after approaching cautiously, ultimately exchanged babies with Suzanne – a profound moment of trust and shared humanity that transcended language and cultural differences.
Throughout his conversation, Barry emphasizes something crucial about Africa that many modern travelers miss: the continent is primarily savanna, not the jungle many outsiders imagine. The vast expanses of open plains dotted with iconic acacia trees formed the backdrop for most of their journey, punctuated by breathtaking vistas that have remained vivid in Barry’s memory for over five decades – the pyramids rising in the distance, Victoria Falls with its thunderous roar, and Kilimanjaro standing majestically above herds of elephants and zebras.
When asked if he would make the same journey today, Barry’s answer is revealing. While Africa’s physical landscapes remain stunning, the political landscapes have shifted dramatically. More importantly, the experience of traveling without electronic tethers – no cell phones, no GPS, no instant communication – created a form of presence and connection that’s increasingly rare in modern travel. This “disconnection” paradoxically allowed for deeper connection with the places and people they encountered.
Fifty years after this remarkable journey, Barry has captured these experiences in his book “Beneath the African Sun.” His motivation wasn’t commercial success but rather preserving these stories for his children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren. In his words, he wanted them to understand not just what he did, but the spirit in which he approached the world – with humility, openness, and a willingness to see the fundamental humanity in everyone he met.
At 84, Barry Maughan reminds us that adventure isn’t about conquering places but about connecting with them. His definition of adventure – “searching for the heretofore unknown” and “not being afraid of what’s around the next bend” – offers wisdom for travelers of all ages. In a world where travel is increasingly mediated by technology and carefully managed experiences, Barry’s journey stands as a testament to the rewards of approaching the world with an open heart, genuine curiosity, and the understanding that, regardless of external differences, “people are people are people.”
